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Now that I've become rather efficient at leveling, crowning, and polishing frets I'd like to move onto replacing frets. I'm hoping someone could give me some advice and point me in the direction of a good video tutorial. Also, a list of essential tools. I'm especially interested in installing frets on necks with binding. Thanks.

StewMac has some pretty good stuff...
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_su ... ,_DVD.html
They're a sponser.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

Thanks, I was thinking more along the lines of youtube video's. I will search, but there is plenty of bad advice on youtube. I was thinking someone might have a reputable source.

Yeah, stew mac has a bunch of my money.. lol I bought all my nut files and leveling/crowning tools from them. Awesome customer service.

If, as you say, you are intending to replace frets on bound fretboards, then you are going to have to give Stewmac some more of your money, and buy their Fret Tang Nipper

to me (who has limited experience), the greatest challenge is not tearing up the fretboard when you remove frets. letting the fretboard drink some oil for a day or two, pre-op, should help ease the frets out. the addition of some heat via soldering iron is also a good idea but take care you don't overheat and scorch the wood
at the very minimum, my list of tools (not including crowning/leveling/polishing)would be: a nylon/hard rubber mallet, an end-nipper, wire cutters, a dremel-style rotary tool, a flat bastard file with the tang removed....if you are lucky you may get by without a fret wire bender

Hi.
I have been doing guitar repair and getting into building for the last 18+ months or so, so I am quite new at this.
I have however done some refrets and fretdresses, and can share what I have learned in this time if it could be of any help.

I bought 2 of Dan Erlewines fretting DVD's (Basic and Advanced volume 1). These helped a lot, also get the book "Fretwork step by step". To me they are well worth the money, and I thought long and hard before I got them. The book also explains how to refret guitars with binding.

Like stated above, use oil on fretboards, where needed (rosewood board). If laquered, then scripe the laquer gently before removing them.
I always use a soldering iron on the frets before i pull them up, and often a stripe of water on either side of the fret, which helps to loosen any glue and soften the wood (rosewood fretboard).

I now see that stewmac has some new "chip stoppers". I haven't tried them, but I might get a pair next time i order from SM. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_su ... ppers.html

The fretpuller is most valuable also:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_su ... 1&xsr=1158

Just remember to take things slow, and don't be in a hurry.

I got some cheap necks from the factory sale on GuitarFetish.com, and then I bought some frets from stewmac, and started fretting, and removing frets.

When Inserting frets, I almost always use superglue. I found that the frets stay seated better, and less problems when doing fretdressing and crowning later on.
I sometime use a fret-hammer, but most of the time I use the Jaws-II.
Of all the "Jaws" model, I thought it would be the most versatile. And it works good, although abit cumbersome sometimes. And less noisy than a hammer..

Also, buy a piece of rosewood (bridge blank, or fretboard blank), and make some rosewood dust to put in a glass. Its very helpful when fixing chips, holes and dings on a rosewood fretboard.
Along with thin superglue and some teflon for fret slot inserts.

Best regards,
Tim

I saw someone with a Jaws I and tried it out... it was really difficult to seat frets with it, and you need more pressure to seat frets than you think, however the vise grip couldn't really exert enough pressure to actually seat the fret. I tried one and the fret popped right out. A huge waste of money and I found hammering to be more intuitive. I also use a drill press if fret pressing is possible, and you really need to put your weight into it to seat the fret properly. An arbor press would be more suited to this.

Instead of using CA glue I found titebond to be valuable to keep frets seated. Run a bit of titebond into the slot, hammer as normal and the titebond backfills any void and prevents the fret from coming loose later.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

So I have this no name Les Paul Copy my friend found on the side of the road and gave it to me in exchange for a setup. It's a prefect candidate for a refret. I'm ordering some jumbo fret wire, as it appears to have jumbo on it, some of the new chips stoppers fro strew mac, some lemon oil, a fret puller and cutter. I have a fretting hammer I use for seating raised frets before leveling.

Am I missing anything else. Ahh, I do have a 40 watt solder iron would that be too hot for heating the frets?

Thanks

Oh, if any of you can identify this guitar somehow it would be great.


014 by Bohdan79, on Flickr


013 by Bohdan79, on Flickr

Havn't tried them, but you may want to consider a new offering from Stewmac.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Pullers,_nippers,_sizing/Chip_Stoppers.html
Sorry, I'll read the post properly next time..............

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

You will need a fret tang nipper since that is a bound fretboard.

Klein Tools 76011B Nibbler Tool, half the price of the StewMac unit.

Does Nibbler also poop out dark matter?

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

What about glue? I'm wondering should I use any, especially being that I'm removing tang from the fret wire. Also I'm sure I'll have a boat load of questions once I actually start pulling the first few frets. I'm thinking a slot cleaning tool as well? Also, what is a good method to fill in chip out? I read something about rosewood dust and superglue. This guitar looks like it had a refret done once before, poorly. I certainly want to do a much better job. I'll go upload a pic of this hack job... It's crazy.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Oh, here are the frets I'm pulling. I'd certainly like to do a much better job than this. The fret ends a are all uneven an sloppy it looks like someone did a poor job refretting it and never even bothered to crown the frets. Maybe this has something to do with the guitar being lost on the side of the road. I tested the electronics and truss rod. Everything seems good but a few missing parts, and this debacle of a fret job.


007 by Bohdan79, on Flickr

This non-luthiery style of nibbler will need to be modified. Before nibbling any tangs you'll need to cut/grind/file a slot for the crown to sit in.

You might need to re-bind that board...it looks like it's got serious bevel which might explain why the frets are too short.

Yes, that crossed my mind as well. It isn't a consistent bevel either. On some places there in non at all. My thinking, being that I don't want to spend a bunch of cash was to even out the binding and shorten the string spacing if I need to. Replacing the binding might be a little to much to take on.., But you know, I am trying to learn how to do it the "right" way, so I'll have to think about it.

Any good reads or tutorials on binding removal and replacement?

You all have been a ton of help thus far. Much obliged.

That looks like a standard factory fret job.

About glue: it really depends it seems. I like to use thin superglue (from Stewmac), some like Titebond and some like hide glue.
If you remove tang or barb from the fretwire, then it is my experience to use superglue. If you need to put more "barb" you could use the "Fret Crimper" (also Stewmac).
Some like to not use any glue, but that would also depend on how good the fit is in the slot (and quality of the fretboard wood).

What I forgot to mention in my previous post (above), is that I would also recommend this "refret saw and cleaning tool set" (i have all 3 sizes of saws): http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_su ... l_Set.html

They really help for removing dirt and glue and the saw is good if the slot is missing a little depth.
From my previous post, I also like to have a little glass of rosewood dust (from a brigdge blank or something), for fixing any chips, dings or holes in the fretboard.


Best regards,
Tim